The Merkur Club of America Forums

Well. i am happy with 2 mods I've done over the past few years. One is my Audiovox cruise control. and the other is converting to 134A. I have good cooling and spent money on the hoses, condenser, accumulator, and freon. I also changed any O-rings I came across and pulled vacuum for 30 min's before ...

The best upgrade for a computer and VAM is to scrap the VAM!
(I am a Megasquirt convert)

I just breezed thru this thread, so if it's been said before I apologize. DO NOT idle a new engine on initial start up. Rev it right to 2500 rpm and hold it there to properly lubricate the cam during break in or you'll be hearing the tapping again all too soon.

Like this?

I have about 17 oz's in mine. The pressure at 90 degrees, idling with the fan running was @240 PSI. The temp at idle from the center vent is about 41 degrees. It goes down to 34 degrees from the center vent at 65 MPH and 50 percent humidity and 90 degree air temp. I'm curious, and don't have access...

I've been running 134a for 2 years now with cold A/C and no issues. Charge by weight to 80% capacity if you go with 134a. I get 45 degree outlet temps at 90 degrees ambient with an inoperative condenser fan. The R-12 substitutes are better performers, but you are on your own once you convert since a...

I posted mine here when I did them. http://users.adelphia.net/~jimmble/index/Intercooler_Saab_rad.html I have noticed that my car doesn't run cool enough with A/C on, which it did before the Saab/Cossie I/C modification. I am going to add some side baffles (strips of rubber beside the radiator to st...

Carry on! Remanufactured axles are fine if they have new cv's, and some do. The cheap axles can have cv's rebuilt with shoddy practices. The archives will produce some of the issues people have reported with them. I chose to repack my own cv's, picking my best 4 from 4 axles. You may want to disasse...

I'm jumping in late here, but want to clarify for the later Xratty (87-89) guys thinking about a PBR conversion. If you have a later MC and booster, the pedal is perfect with the PBR's, braided lines from Pegasus, and stock rear drums. No problems, and a true street upgrade. The issue seems to be wi...

I gotta respond to this because I went through a bout of hair-pulling over 'brake shake" myself. I am , and have been religious about bedding in new pads and rotors. When I went over to my PBR's I started to get a shimmy on my new setup after only a few hundreds of miles. I could actually SEE a...

Rebuilt the right side CV's and bearing hub, changed right axle. Still got a vibration, but less than before. Swapped wheels, and almost all of it is gone. What little is left is probably tires. It's good enough to live with until I get ready for new tires. Phew, what a hassle!

merk23literturbo wrote:Did you align the driveshaft?

Yes.

Update: I scavanged my parts bin and disassembled a couple of axles. I used the inner cv's from both axles and made a near perfect one for the left side. The cv's didn't look too bad at all, but I used the best ones to be sure. I took off the driveshaft and put back on the Aluminum one I have with n...

Thanks, Brad

I called, and the current price is $95 per joint. His rebuilt axles are $150 exchange.

I'm not sure what shipping will cost for a round trip. I'm still looking.

Does anyone have the part number for our cv joint? I am trying like mad to get a vibration free rear end, and want to rebuild both of my axles with new parts. I don't want a parts house rebuilt axle, no matter how cheap it is. I want new. If our CV is the same as a VW or Porsche, then I have some op...