A New Member

General discussion relating to club happenings and items related to Merkurs in general such as "Merkur sightings". If you just signed on, please feel to start a new thread and introduce yourself here. Posts specifically regarding either the XR4Ti or Scorpio should go in those specific forums. Feel free to make suggestions on improving this forum here as well.
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merkurdriver
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Re: A New Member

Post by merkurdriver »

Clean car! :cheers

I've seen Focus, Taurus, and Mustand fender liners all used somewhere front/rear with decent (and inexpensive) success. I'm sure there are a bunch of threads about fender liner / wheel well liner alternatives.

I stock new garrett turbo center sections "CHRA catridge" - basically its a brand new turbo, you just have to swap your existing turbine housing and compressor housing onto it. Also good used turbos on hand for the budget minded.

The exhaust is the best bang for the buck as mentioned .... and completely reverse-able IF you ever wanted to undo it.
Personally I would get it up and running in stock guise and see where YOU want to go from there.
guytford
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Re: A New Member

Post by guytford »

I can not thank you all enough! :notworthy

Feel like I have come to Merkur Heaven. Will always use the Sponsors first.

Pretty sure I am going to follow advice to get it back to stock, while collecting bolt-ons for the future. That will keep me busy, along with the research. So much information to process - THANK YOU. You guys are amazing

When working on the interior I was thinking about some led upgrades so I was recording the bulb numbers to search the internet. Did some checking and found a post with them all available. The Forum is fantastic.

I appreciate the time spent for advice, suggestions, offerings and discussion, it really helps. Very cool to read the differing opinions. I was very tentative when I decided to work on my baby again, you guys have given me so much confidence moving froward. Feel like I can seek out the advice of "Masters of Merkur Stuff"; (adapted from "Master of Mechanical Stuff" - movie Wild Wild West).

Guy
85 Merkur XR4Ti
96 Bronco
05 Lincoln Mark LT
15 F-350
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R Code
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Re: A New Member

Post by R Code »

Thanks for sharing the pics Guy. My intro post is linked below w/ a few pics of the car.

viewtopic.php?f=19&t=33800
- Chris

'89 XR4Ti (5 speed) - sold
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John Brennan
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Re: A New Member

Post by John Brennan »

R Code wrote: Thu Apr 02, 2020 4:48 pm My point with the brakes was that (given the small tires) if the rear brakes lock up with the stock drums, what do you gain with more powerful rear brakes? Of course disks have better modulation/heat dissipation, but most folks don't use the car that way.
The rears lock up because they're drums, which tend to keep increasing their braking force under constant pressure until they do lock up, and which is why the proportioning valve cuts them off with enough forward deceleration (a metal ball slides up a ramp and closes off the line). The whole key to four-wheel discs is that modulation ability, which forces all four brakes to work together as a system. The shortcomings of the stock brakes are most noticeable under panic stop situations, when the proportioning valve actuates, puts everything on the front brakes, which then overwhelms the front contact patch (as you say). The fade kicks in under high-speed braking, as in, say, mountain highway driving, or of course, the track. These cars were released in the days of the double-nickel... today's speeds on highways and the Interstate are considerably higher than they were then.

EDIT: In summary, the car was sold and marketed as a performance car, yet it was released "unfinished." It seems almost a crime to have sent this fine and capable platform out into the world to compete against BMW, SAAB, etc., without 4-wheel discs, an intercooler, flabby suspension, and a wheel/tire package that was small even for its day (my VW Beetle had 15 X 5.5" wheels, fer Chrissakes). Again, by doing a few simple (and reversible, if by some miracle, these should happen to start moving the needles at Barrett-Jackson or Pebble Beach) and relatively inexpensive mods, you set the car free... and put it on a par with plenty of modern machinery. I think in terms of what it should have-- and could have-- been, with my mods for the car.
This is my car, and these are my people!
2015 Fiesta ST
2020 Edge 2.0 Ecoboost
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R Code
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Re: A New Member

Post by R Code »

John Brennan wrote: Fri Apr 03, 2020 3:05 pm
R Code wrote: Thu Apr 02, 2020 4:48 pm My point with the brakes was that (given the small tires) if the rear brakes lock up with the stock drums, what do you gain with more powerful rear brakes? Of course disks have better modulation/heat dissipation, but most folks don't use the car that way.
The rears lock up because they're drums, which tend to keep increasing their braking force under constant pressure until they do lock up, and which is why the proportioning valve cuts them off with enough forward deceleration (a metal ball slides up a ramp and closes off the line). The whole key to four-wheel discs is that modulation ability, which forces all four brakes to work together as a system. The shortcomings of the stock brakes are most noticeable under panic stop situations, when the proportioning valve actuates, puts everything on the front brakes, which then overwhelms the front contact patch (as you say). The fade kicks in under high-speed braking, as in, say, mountain highway driving, or of course, the track. These cars were released in the days of the double-nickel... today's speeds on highways and the Interstate are considerably higher than they were then.
Sure, these cars were released in the U.S. when 55 mph speed limit was common, but as you know the platform was engineered & produced for the euro market & their typically higher speed limits. The rears are prone to lock up due to fwd weight transfer under hard braking (physics + front spring rates tuned for comfort vs. performance), combined with the limited contact patch of the tiny tires. This is why the engineers designed that relief function into the stock prop valve.

Same thing that would happen if you swapped to rear disks, unless you used an adjustable prop valve & dialed back the pressure until you had LESS braking force than the stock drums. Brake fade is a different issue, and does not come from high speed braking, but rather repeated, hard braking where the parts can't dissipate enough heat to maintain in spec performance. Pad material can help fade resistance, but not heat dissipation, so if you are running big wheel/tire combo and/or tracking the car, then brake upgrades might be worth it, depending on the parts spec.

I've had plenty of track time in vintage cars (required to run "production" brakes) and modern cars (mostly 911s with stock brakes), and for a street-driven car (style points aside) I don't feel a brake upgrade is worth it (hence my original comments), but happy to agree to disagree.
- Chris

'89 XR4Ti (5 speed) - sold
Ed Lijewski
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Re: A New Member

Post by Ed Lijewski »

Been my position here (Scorpio and XR), forever:

"...for a street-driven car (style points aside) I don't feel a brake upgrade is worth it..."

YMMV
Descartes: "Cogito Ergo Sum"
Lijewski: "Sum Ergo Drive-O. Mucho!
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eaton53
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Re: A New Member

Post by eaton53 »

Your car is a lot cleaner than the vast majority of 'em.
My recommendation.. fix what's broken with OEM parts (get with Mike and jeff, they're there for you) and otherwise leave it be.
Spend your money making it as nice looking and as close to new as you possibly can.

There are very few of us who own very good unmolested examples, even less with cars that could be considered a show quality survivor.
Refusal to mod will actually save you money, because it removes the temptation to do things to "improve" the car.

The only things I did to mine last year was change the oil and polish it.
It did have a significant going-through by my mechanic, who had orders to "fix it" in '18, but nothing is ever altered from stock.
Mark Copeland - I'm 50 miles west of Kewanee, IL

'89 XR4Ti
Car was the 2014 MCA Merkur Preservation Award Winner
'89 Scorpio
This one has a very bright and shiny future.
Proud member of the Iowa-Illinois Merkur Owner's Association since 2015. :cheers
guytford
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Re: A New Member

Post by guytford »

What a GREAT Brake discussion! Some very knowledgeable folks around these parts.

Eaton53 - Thanks! appreciate the advice. It has some paint wear on the bumpers and few chips here and there.

Starting to go through it and think that it will keep me busy for awhile. Changing all filters and fluids. Put it up on jacks today. The undercarriage is pretty clean thanks to the undercoating, but has some rust on brackets and pieces and parts. Think I may have a bad low pressure fuel pump. Using the Shop Manual Fuel System Diagnostic, I am to dropping the fuel tank to clean the tank, check the pump and check the filter. Most likely am going to replace the metal fuel lines. I will have lots of time to think about upgrades or changes while I am getting back to everything being right per stock. Looking forward to turning the key all the way. After all the great advice here thinking about going that route first. Since the 3" exhaust seems to be the best bang for the buck and can always go back to standard exhaust, think I may go with it for awhile, but nothing that can't be undone.

Working with Mike on some stuff, Sorry to show my ignorance but what is the Username for Jeff?

Very Thankful for the Forums, trying to catch up.

Thanks -

Guy T.
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Re: A New Member

Post by my8950 »

guytford wrote: Sat Apr 04, 2020 7:17 pm What a GREAT Brake discussion! Some very knowledgeable folks around these parts.

Eaton53 - Thanks! appreciate the advice. It has some paint wear on the bumpers and few chips here and there.

Starting to go through it and think that it will keep me busy for awhile. Changing all filters and fluids. Put it up on jacks today. The undercarriage is pretty clean thanks to the undercoating, but has some rust on brackets and pieces and parts. Think I may have a bad low pressure fuel pump. Using the Shop Manual Fuel System Diagnostic, I am to dropping the fuel tank to clean the tank, check the pump and check the filter. Most likely am going to replace the metal fuel lines. I will have lots of time to think about upgrades or changes while I am getting back to everything being right per stock. Looking forward to turning the key all the way. After all the great advice here thinking about going that route first. Since the 3" exhaust seems to be the best bang for the buck and can always go back to standard exhaust, think I may go with it for awhile, but nothing that can't be undone.

Working with Mike on some stuff, Sorry to show my ignorance but what is the Username for Jeff?

Very Thankful for the Forums, trying to catch up.

Thanks -

Guy T.
Jeff is blugg
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andyofcolumbusmerkur
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Re: A New Member

Post by andyofcolumbusmerkur »

Cool. With just 50k your turbo may have a lot of life left, check shaft play. I'd get it all functioning correct with new wastegate diaphragm, silicone hoses, and gills style boost controller like one from boostvalve dotcom. Maybe the clip came off and you had zero boost, or diaphragm was bad and you were boosting to the moon. Test it with a bicycle pump. As far as brakes go many people upgrade to the 87.5+ style MC, but they are harder and harder to find, even the rebuild kits. Plus the stock brakes are still pretty small. Adapters are out there to use the Thunderbird MC and Mustang calipers and larger Contour SVT rotors. Makes sense to upgrade brakes. If you only swap the rear drums for discs you won't be happy with the results. Discs need more pressure to work than drums. My first car had drums on the front and rear with no power assist. But if they were discs I wouldn't have been able to press hard enough on the pedal. I would do the whole setup correctly with larger MC, adjustable proportioning valve, larger front calipers and rotors all at the same time if you are doing a rear disc brake conversion. I like the idea of getting it all sorted and totally stock (for now) since it is a pretty fun car already and fun to find the limits of what they can do. Keep us posted.
The best way to keep your Kia from being stolen is to not have a Kia.
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eaton53
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Re: A New Member

Post by eaton53 »

guytford wrote: Sat Apr 04, 2020 7:17 pm What a GREAT Brake discussion! Some very knowledgeable folks around these parts.

Eaton53 - Thanks! appreciate the advice. It has some paint wear on the bumpers and few chips here and there.

Starting to go through it and think that it will keep me busy for awhile. Changing all filters and fluids. Put it up on jacks today. The undercarriage is pretty clean thanks to the undercoating, but has some rust on brackets and pieces and parts. Think I may have a bad low pressure fuel pump. Using the Shop Manual Fuel System Diagnostic, I am to dropping the fuel tank to clean the tank, check the pump and check the filter. Most likely am going to replace the metal fuel lines. I will have lots of time to think about upgrades or changes while I am getting back to everything being right per stock. Looking forward to turning the key all the way. After all the great advice here thinking about going that route first. Since the 3" exhaust seems to be the best bang for the buck and can always go back to standard exhaust, think I may go with it for awhile, but nothing that can't be undone.

Working with Mike on some stuff, Sorry to show my ignorance but what is the Username for Jeff?

Very Thankful for the Forums, trying to catch up.

Thanks -

Guy T.
Your list doesn't look like one that will take a major undertaking or huge expense to put right.
There is one mod I would make. When you fix your dash, forget about the center speaker (it sucks anyway) and get one from a later car.
My '89 dash is in perfect condition, not a crack anywhere. My old '85 was cracked when it was a couple of years old.
Mark Copeland - I'm 50 miles west of Kewanee, IL

'89 XR4Ti
Car was the 2014 MCA Merkur Preservation Award Winner
'89 Scorpio
This one has a very bright and shiny future.
Proud member of the Iowa-Illinois Merkur Owner's Association since 2015. :cheers
DAReese
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Re: A New Member

Post by DAReese »

eaton53 wrote: Sun Apr 05, 2020 8:48 pm
guytford wrote: Sat Apr 04, 2020 7:17 pm What a GREAT Brake discussion! Some very knowledgeable folks around these parts.

Eaton53 - Thanks! appreciate the advice. It has some paint wear on the bumpers and few chips here and there.

Starting to go through it and think that it will keep me busy for awhile. Changing all filters and fluids. Put it up on jacks today. The undercarriage is pretty clean thanks to the undercoating, but has some rust on brackets and pieces and parts. Think I may have a bad low pressure fuel pump. Using the Shop Manual Fuel System Diagnostic, I am to dropping the fuel tank to clean the tank, check the pump and check the filter. Most likely am going to replace the metal fuel lines. I will have lots of time to think about upgrades or changes while I am getting back to everything being right per stock. Looking forward to turning the key all the way. After all the great advice here thinking about going that route first. Since the 3" exhaust seems to be the best bang for the buck and can always go back to standard exhaust, think I may go with it for awhile, but nothing that can't be undone.

Working with Mike on some stuff, Sorry to show my ignorance but what is the Username for Jeff?

Very Thankful for the Forums, trying to catch up.

Thanks -

Guy T.
Your list doesn't look like one that will take a major undertaking or huge expense to put right.
There is one mod I would make. When you fix your dash, forget about the center speaker (it sucks anyway) and get one from a later car.
My '89 dash is in perfect condition, not a crack anywhere. My old '85 was cracked when it was a couple of years old.
Merkurs never had a center speaker. It was for the low-end Sierras. There was a NOS dash with the center hole on eBay, but they wanted stupid money for it. The 87.5-89 improved dashes are more commonly available and don't crack as easily. The only issue I see is they switched from a lighter gray to a darker gray and 89s had a larger opening for the a-pillar cover that went into the dash instead of stopping at the dash.
David Reese

88 XR4Ti - mono white T5, someday to be bi wing
89 Scorpio - waiting on some parts before it hits the road again
88 XR4Ti - mono red C3, parts car
used to own 86 dark blue traded in on a min van, what was I thinking?
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eaton53
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Re: A New Member

Post by eaton53 »

The 87.5-89 improved dashes are more commonly available and don't crack as easily.
That's what I mean... get one off an '88 if you can to avoid the inevitable cracking.
I've seen good ones come up for sale from time to time.
Mark Copeland - I'm 50 miles west of Kewanee, IL

'89 XR4Ti
Car was the 2014 MCA Merkur Preservation Award Winner
'89 Scorpio
This one has a very bright and shiny future.
Proud member of the Iowa-Illinois Merkur Owner's Association since 2015. :cheers
guytford
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Re: A New Member

Post by guytford »

Thanks for the advice on the dash.

Found a summary of changes to production from 85 to 89 - interesting, they mention the dash upgrade. Was suprised the joy stick for the speakers was deleted - also thought that was the coolest part of the car!

What a nice XR you got there. Checked out the photos - very very nice.

Thanks,
Guy
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Bob Weir
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Re: A New Member

Post by Bob Weir »

Guy

You wrote <Using the Shop Manual> Congrats :cheers So many people buy Merkurs and won't invest a few bucks in this and the "Electrical & Vacuum Trouble Shooting Manual". If you don't have it, get one [you gonna need it]. Best to get one for your year cause they're slight changes. Contact our sponsors or a WTB & members will reply.

Now that you're experiencing the MCA website forums, you'll have "a few reliable info resources".

Enjoy the Merkur. :D
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