Getting back into the game after 4+ years - What to do?

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xr4tifan
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Getting back into the game after 4+ years - What to do?

Post by xr4tifan »

I'm getting back to my Scorp after 3+ years sitting covered. Looking for a good list of things to do before bringing her back to life. Maybe a must do list and a go the extra mile list. Any/all recommendations appreciated.
'88 Scorpio - K&N air filter, custom hood, 17" wheels, dual exhaust
PeterP11c
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Re: Getting back into the game after 4+ years - What to do?

Post by PeterP11c »

Hi,
Well, first get her started, which means a new battery and do an oil plus filter change. Spark plugs and ignition wires should follow next. Your tires might be shot from years of inactivity. That is a beginning and consequently you might find a myriad of challenges both mechanical and electrical. Being Scorpio owners we get used to it. Good luck.
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xr4tifan
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Re: Getting back into the game after 4+ years - What to do?

Post by xr4tifan »

Thanks! :thumb That's a start. Tires are a definite. I know I'll be replacing the Steering rack and pump as well. Do I have to drain the gas tank, clean the fuel pump and change the fuel filter before attempting to start? Anything for the transmission? I'm trying to prevent any damage while trying to revive the beast.
'88 Scorpio - K&N air filter, custom hood, 17" wheels, dual exhaust
zxr250cc
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Re: Getting back into the game after 4+ years - What to do?

Post by zxr250cc »

Hi all,

Change ALL fluids. Motor, cooling, brakes... Bleed the brakes if you have the energy. A jar and some clear fuel line tubing with a helper to add brake fluid as you bleed each wheel makes it quick to do. Old brake fluid kills the brake system by pooling little water drops in the bore of the various cylinders... DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid would be good. Antifreeze dies in the process of fighting rust and corrosion and needs changing. Run the motor until the fuel filter starts to plug up and then change it. It won't need it to start and will fill up fairly soon as you run it some miles or hours of use time. Then change to a new one.

Good transmission fluid like Valvoline Synthetic MaxLife ATF or Mobil Synthetic ATF is good to do and not hard. Change the A4LD trans filter if never done by dropping the pan, cleaning it if it has residue in it and then fill with fluid. Only about half of the fluid drains when you do this and you will need maybe four or five quarts to refill. A torque wrench is a good thing for trans pan bolts as they are easy to over tighten. Same for spark plugs. What year are the tires? Read the DOT year code. If they are seven years or more older plan on tires, soon.

We have threads in here about engine flush, injector cleaning etc.. Check the XR as well as Scorpio files.

Cheers
1986 XR4Ti Mineral Blue Metallic
PeterP11c
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Re: Getting back into the game after 4+ years - What to do?

Post by PeterP11c »

Forgot to mention one more thing: drive belts. They don't cost much, but will help you to avoid this screeching noise while engine runs, not to mention proper alternator charging and water pump operation. Be on the lookout for engine temperature gauge to see if the thermostat opens up and if the secondary fan kicks in at reaching normal engine temperature. Finally, changing an air filter and vacuuming the box is one of the crucial things to do.
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andyofcolumbusmerkur
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Re: Getting back into the game after 4+ years - What to do?

Post by andyofcolumbusmerkur »

PeterP11c wrote: Tue Aug 09, 2022 7:53 am Forgot to mention one more thing: drive belts. They don't cost much, but will help you to avoid this screeching noise while engine runs, not to mention proper alternator charging and water pump operation. Be on the lookout for engine temperature gauge to see if the thermostat opens up and if the secondary fan kicks in at reaching normal engine temperature. Finally, changing an air filter and vacuuming the box is one of the crucial things to do.
That's some good advice. I've seen some crusty thermostats in vehicles that have sat awhile. Might as well just take it out and replace it. Even leave it out for now. Some people get super anal and change the oil after they park it, then change the oil again (with zero miles on it) before starting something that has been in long term storage. That air intake area is another big problem area. I have found intakes filled with dog food, nuts etc from mice after just sitting one winter. On really old mowers or other small engines, I like to remove the spark plug(s) and shoot some wd40 in there. Then let it sit a little and crank things over with spark disabled. I hate the idea of even a spec of rust on the cylinder bores/rings scratching up and down. Plus it helps displace moisture. After that I use a shot of CRC carb spray (before installing plug) to light it off and another into the carb after that. It seems like just plain old gas from the gas station will still work ok if something has sat an entire year without running. So I assume it has some amount of fuel stabilizer in it. But you say 4 years? It may be varnish at this point. They have those fuel transfer pumps at harbor freight that don't cost too much. Then you could pour in some fresh fuel to dilute what is still in there. I've seen people jump a fuel pump relay to pump out fuel. I don't really like running the pump in that way since the fuel lubes and cools the pump. But if you plan to replace the pump anyway it shouldn't matter much. The in tank fuel filter sock and the main fuel filter may need to be changed depending on how bad that fuel is. Take some time and inspect the car for any damaged wiring. The last thing you want to do is have it go up in flames because a mouse chewed something.
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Re: Getting back into the game after 4+ years - What to do?

Post by my8950 »

andyofcolumbusmerkur wrote: Tue Aug 09, 2022 11:29 am I have found intakes filled with dog food
hahahaha
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Re: Getting back into the game after 4+ years - What to do?

Post by zxr250cc »

Hi all,

You have heard the phrase squirrel cage fan blower, right? I have seen one removed from the dash of a pick up that had a fill blown rat nest in it. Rodents are total hell on stored cars... My farmer buddy that I work on old cars with had mice living in the dash of a Land Cruiser on top of the radio in the dash. The main wire looms goes by there. They ate it in half and the pee rusted the radio chassis into a hole ridden mess.

Mice, rodents from the dark side!

Cheers
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Re: Getting back into the game after 4+ years - What to do?

Post by john keefe »

Open up the wiring harnesses that route near/over the battery and check for swollen wire sheaths. I've had at least 2 where the hot battery wicks fumes into the harness and corrodes wires. Don't know why, but both times the yellow wire to the EEC-module were the worst affected. That would drive you nuts trying to resolve weird drivability issues, acceleration stutter, etc.
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Re: Getting back into the game after 4+ years - What to do?

Post by brokencase »

Every fuse and relay blade connection in the fuse box is oxidized. Sand and clean each one and apply a small dab of...
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xr4tifan
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Re: Getting back into the game after 4+ years - What to do?

Post by xr4tifan »

Thanks everyone for all of the advice. Does anyone know where I can get the steering rack rebuilt near Portland, OR? Have tried to purchase twice on ebay to no avail. Also, would like to replace steering knuckles, bearings etc.
Thanks
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my8950
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Re: Getting back into the game after 4+ years - What to do?

Post by my8950 »

xr4tifan wrote: Wed Aug 24, 2022 2:28 pm Thanks everyone for all of the advice. Does anyone know where I can get the steering rack rebuilt near Portland, OR? Have tried to purchase twice on ebay to no avail. Also, would like to replace steering knuckles, bearings etc.
Thanks
Rapido is in Oregon
Merkur Midwest is in Illinois

Both will have steering racks which have been rebuilt.
They'll need yours as a core as well.
They should have the other parts you ask about also.
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Re: Getting back into the game after 4+ years - What to do?

Post by thlamers »

I have owned four Scorpios, one '88 and three'99s, all of which have had to be put back into service after storage.

If the car will not start it can be clogged fuel injectors due to ethanol gas in the tank going bad. Use the car's fuel pump to drain the tank into portable gas cans and dispose of the bad fuel at a recycling center. Add fresh gas and try to start. If ignition is working then most likely you will need to pull injectors and test. Should provide a fine spray mist, not a jet. They can be cleaned with throttle body cleaning solvent forced through the injector while energizing the coil with a battery. Clean injectors can also make a significant improvement in power.
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