Oil Consumption

[Fresh Air Inspector]

Hello All,

Just curious what oil consumption you are experiencing? Having just finished getting my recently purchased Scorpio on the road it is now approaching the 5K km (3K mi), oil / filter change point. I'm using 15W40 Diesel oil (dyno not synthetic), because of the higher ZDDP content (anti-wear additive). Note; some Diesel oils also have a gasoline engine rating. For example; CJ-4 for four stroke high speed Diesels and SN for gasoline engines.

Today I checked the oil level and noticed it was down about 1/2 l (~1/2 Qt.). This is more than I expected. My Volvo 940 Turbo uses the same oil and uses about 1/2 a cup of oil between changes. The Scorpio does have a tiny oil leak at the distributor - O-ring to be changed tomorrow. But this is a small amount based on what I see on the lower bell housing area.

I assume valve seals are not an issue with these engines? If so, has anyone changed the valve seals using the 'air compressor / spark plug hole adapter process' to replace them?

What weight and type oil are you using? How often do you change oil / filter? What oil consumption are you seeing?

[john keefe]

Curious what dist. O-ring you come up with, and whether it cures the leak. I've chased the same for a while, but still have a leak, and I'm pretty sure its not coming from the intake manifold gaskets or valve covers (tho they do have a slight leak as well).

[Ed Lijewski]

Per Ford's TSB endorsing 5W-30 for a wide range of model year cars I'm now running that viscosity in one Scorpio and one XR. 5W-30 may be finding small areas to weep lightly (not totally certain but possible) but I'd accept that for the easier cold start lubrication as a winning tradeoff. I change oil after ~7,500 miles or more and I eyeball dipstick oil for clues a change is due/overdue; I don't fret about not adhering to a fixed oil change schedule. I look for respected name brand filters on sale at Rock Auto.

Re changing valve seals, stuffing rope through the spark plug hole into the combustion chamber will hold the valves up as the shaft seals are replaced. I've done the R&R that way on an XR without issue. Use clothes line rope or equivalent that won't shred on insertion and removal.

YMMV

[brokencase]

I had to replace my distributor O-Ring.

Initially I did not know where the oil leak was coming from so I added UV dye to the oil and after a commute to work I was able to see it with the uv light.

R and R of the distributor was a bit of a pain. Just be sure to note the position of the rotor before removal and you won't have to redo the timing after replacement.

My O-ring was toast. Crumbly and broken. It is in a hot spot of the engine.

After replacing I was worried that other seals might be getting hard. There were good reviews regarding this product online - AT 205 Reseal.
https://www.amazon.com/ATP-AT-205-Re-Se ... B000NVW1LM

I ran it in the crankcase for about two weeks before an upcoming oil change.

But I also took what was left of my crumbly O-ring and tossed it into a little jar with some AT-205 and set it on my house heater for a few days.
I was absolutely amazed how it restored resiliency to what was left of that O-ring. I was sold.

It is not a petroleum based "seal sweller". It actually has the plasticizers needed to restore the rubber.

BTW, I don't notice my Scorpio consuming any measurable amount oil. About 87k miles. I change it once a year. But with COVID I have not put many miles on it.

I am running 15-40W also.

[Fresh Air Inspector]

Hello All,

First, spoke to soon about the oil consumption. Seems that the oil draining back into the pan takes much longer than I expected. When I checked the level a few hours later it was almost at the full mark. Weird - lesson learned. Luckily I didn't top up the oil.

I removed and reinstalled my distributor today, took a number of pictures and will prepare a 'how to post' soon. Need to confirm the exact dimensions for the O-ring before doing so.

Hello Ed,

Thanks for the info. I haven't tried the rope trick for valve seals but have used it to 'lock' an engine to remove the crank pulley bolt as well as torqueing it back in place. I have used the air compressor / spark plug adapter method to replace the valve seals on my son-in-law's GMC truck (305 V8). Worked really well albeit a little disconcerting when you release the valve spring tension half expecting the valve to drop into the cylinder.

Hello Brokencase,

Appreciate the insight. I pulled the distributor today, releasing the TFI connector as well as removing the distributor bolt clamp was a pain. But I marked the rotor to housing as well as the reluctor to housing location to ensure the distributor went back in the right place. Plus I had a timing light available to set the timing as per the shop manual.

My O-ring was intact but quite stiff and 'set' from being in the block from day one. A noticeable amount of oil around the base of the distributor and the passenger side of the block. Unfortunately my selection of O-rings did not include a 34mm (OD) x 30mm (ID) x 2mm (cross section) [my measurements without removing it]. Unfortunately I had to resort to a thin smear of Silicone gasket maker on the distributor housing just above the O-ring as well as the underside of the clamp flange. This is temporary and should hold until I can find the correct O-ring. Not looking forward to cleaning up the Silicone when I source the O-ring.

I may have to go the seal sweller route as my rear seal appears to leave the occasional drip - I have a dislike for a car that marks it's territory. The ATP product you suggested is unavailable at the moment, pity. Having someone say a product 'does what it says on the label' is always welcome.

[brokencase]

FreshAIrInspector -

I have a very extensive O-ring collection. Despite this I was also unable to locate a proper O-Ring.

I can't remember what part store I got this from at the time, but I see amazon sells it....
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-80024-Dis ... B000AQ9FM8

Anyway, in that kit was an O-Ring that fit.

AT-205 is not a "seal sweller". It actually restores the rubber's resiliency. I don't know how it does it but it does.

[my8950]

Re changing valve seals, stuffing rope through the spark plug hole into the combustion chamber will hold the valves up as the shaft seals are replaced. I've done the R&R that way on an XR without issue. Use clothes line rope or equivalent that won't shred on insertion and removal.

YMMV

I've done this as well and it worked out good, just make sure you've got about 25' or so, seems like I had to keep feeding the spark plug hole for a long time, tie a wrench or something on the end so that the rope doesn't accidentally fall in if you get close to the end.