thermal limiting fuse

ShaggyZ · Post by **ShaggyZ** » Thu Jan 15, 2009 6:45 pm

onebadazzsrt wrote:I did a google search for how to get the motor out, it was pretty easy you just have to cut down the sides of you heater box under the hood, I had it out withing 20 minutes and sealed the box up with some black silicone and it works good. I'll try and snap some pics so you get a better idea of how to do it. But the problem with mine was the bearings were kinda seized thats why the motor wouldn't even move.

that's how I did mine: serrated kitchen knife, dish soap, and some compatible silicone other similar material is all you need.

onebadazzsrt · Post by **onebadazzsrt** » Thu Jan 15, 2009 7:09 pm

whats the dish soap for?

ShaggyZ · Post by **ShaggyZ** » Fri Jan 16, 2009 1:10 am

onebadazzsrt wrote:whats the dish soap for?

Lubricates the knife against the plastic. It requires significantly less effort that way.

onebadazzsrt · Post by **onebadazzsrt** » Fri Jan 16, 2009 1:39 am

Ahhhh!

zero pistons · Post by **zero pistons** » Fri Feb 06, 2009 3:22 pm

so i ended up puling the blower motor assembly out of the damn car.

i hooked the orange wire to ground and the black with red stripe to power.

the blower motor should spin then, correct??

mine doesn't.

also, how hard should it be to turn??

mine feels stiff to me.

looks as if water got into it at some point or something.

I cant drive the car with no heat as it is still winter for a few more months...and more suggestions?

Post by **Ed Lijewski** » Fri Feb 06, 2009 3:43 pm

zero pistons wrote:so i ended up puling the blower motor assembly out of the damn car.

i hooked the orange wire to ground and the black with red stripe to power.

the blower motor should spin then, correct??

mine doesn't.

also, how hard should it be to turn??

mine feels stiff to me.

looks as if water got into it at some point or something.

I cant drive the car with no heat as it is still winter for a few more months...and more suggestions?

Definitely should spin freely. It's a long shot, but try penetrating oil to free the shaft from the bushings in the motor (work it back and forth, gently); if you get it eventually spin freely, lubricate the bushings with light oil, and hope for the best if it works on 12 volt current and you decide to reinstall it.

YMMV

Post by **DPDISXR4Ti** » Fri Feb 06, 2009 3:52 pm

zero pistons wrote:also, how hard should it be to turn??

It should spin freely. Sounds like it's time for a replacement.

zero pistons · Post by **zero pistons** » Fri Feb 06, 2009 4:02 pm

okay....anyone had any experience in replacing this....?? who can i get one from? how much am i looking at?

onebadazzsrt · Post by **onebadazzsrt** » Fri Feb 06, 2009 4:08 pm

Like said above, I used some pb blaster on the bearings, and some electrical cleaner on the motors brushes, do this with the motor dis-connected to any power supply. Once the blaster works it's way in and it starts to spin, connect it to power and give it a spin with you hand if you have to but be careful it's got some torque for a little motor.

zero pistons · Post by **zero pistons** » Fri Feb 06, 2009 4:39 pm

ok, i'll try that...

Mike McCreight · Post by **Mike McCreight** » Fri Feb 06, 2009 11:13 pm

Put it in a vise. Back in my "Newb" days, I fired one up, thought I had it secured. It took off like a rabid squirrel on meth. Quick reflexes and a little luck are all that saved me from injury.

Look for a reed switch by the brushes. Bypass it. If the brushes are OK, and free in the sleeves, and the braided wires are still attached to said brushes, that's all that's left.

zero pistons · Post by **zero pistons** » Fri Feb 06, 2009 11:18 pm

Here is a pic of my old seized blower motor....

Just a thought; does the red wire need to be hooked up to the resistor pack deal to work, or will it work if i hook the wires directly to the battery?

Is the reed switch you are referring to on the plastic connector-thingies with the little springs (brush holders) or on the motor somewhere else?

also, where the little armature attaches to the commutator with the little copper wires, 2 of those wires, exactly opposite one another, are broken. It feels like there is a burr on each one, so maybe i's where they snipped the wire when they assembled it? Because if it got hot enough to melt the wire, i would expect a little ball at the end instead of a burr....if it isn't supposed to be broken, then save me the time of trying to make this one work.....anyone able to take a look at theirs?

my brush holders are corroded away a little, but i should be able to clean them up ok and still get contact where the wire protrudes from the back.....

I'm afraid of the call to rapido tomorrow to see what the want for a tested unit...lol.

onebadazzsrt · Post by **onebadazzsrt** » Sat Feb 07, 2009 12:54 am

Try sitting down while you make the call. LOL
seriously though if you would have seen the way mine looked you would have thought it belonged in the trash, a little elbow greese and it was working, just put the wire that goes to the resistor on the positive side of a battery or jump box or what ever you have and the other goes to the negative, give it a couple turns with your hand and be carefull because if it's not in a vise or vise grips the thing will take off.

zero pistons · Post by **zero pistons** » Sat Feb 07, 2009 1:54 am

I'll let you know how it turns out tomorrow.

zero pistons · Post by **zero pistons** » Sat Feb 07, 2009 12:24 pm

ok im pretty much at a loss now.....the blower motor is freed up, a lot of liquid wrench and a few whacks with a small hammer from the end and it spins fine.

I sandpapered the commutator and the brushes and cleaned everything with contact cleaner, put the brushes back onto the motor, went out to the garage, hooked it up, and NOTHING HAPPENED AGAIN.....am i missing something?

It isn't even trying to spin. no electrical smell, no sparks, no nothing....help!!

i really can't afford a new one and would hate to have the car sit for another 3 weeks because the heat won't work...

the brush holder on the + side has 2 prongs on the back of it, do i need to bridge these to get it to go?

what do you mean about the brushes being free in the sleeves?