Manual trans into auto xr

[my8950]

I found that again, and have looked thru it and the one on Merkur Encyclopedia. However I see no pics of what it look like when they're talking about reusing the stock 2 piece drive shaft.

Take the front section of the stock 2 piece driveshaft and have a T5 yoke welded on and balanced at a driveshaft shop.

Is this the stock 2 piece from an auto or manual trans? I assume auto since that's his swap. Is the length different between the auto and manual 2 piece?

[milehighXR]

The one pictured above is the after T5 swap. The front part of the shafts are different, the back end of the shafts are all the same, even between Scorp/XR IIRC.

[milehighXR]

I found that again, and have looked thru it and the one on Merkur Encyclopedia. However I see no pics of what it look like when they're talking about reusing the stock 2 piece drive shaft.

Take the front section of the stock 2 piece driveshaft and have a T5 yoke welded on and balanced at a driveshaft shop.

Whats that length gotta be center to center again Mike? I know I found it here somewhere, but with there being no FAQ, and none of the other sources I've specifying what the length is center to center...

[milehighXR]

Never mind found it, 16" +/- .25"

[milehighXR]

Got bolts from CNC motorsports, for $39.80 including shipping. They're on the way. Now to find some blots for clutch housing to flywheel, and get injectors cleaned. I just might be able to drive this car before turkey day...

[my8950]

The one pictured above is the after T5 swap. The front part of the shafts are different, the back end of the shafts are all the same, even between Scorp/XR IIRC.

So the whole front piece is different? not just the yoke? The shaft too? Needs to change length?

[merkurdriver]

The one pictured above is the after T5 swap. The front part of the shafts are different, the back end of the shafts are all the same, even between Scorp/XR IIRC.

So the whole front piece is different? not just the yoke? The shaft too? Needs to change length?

The front is the same shaft, its just cut down and a new flange welded to it that accepts 1310 style u-joint. Then stick 1310 u-joint on, and add (off the shelf) T5 slip yoke.

[timxr8]

Wondering where that shaft came from, since the front tube and CSB look to be the only stock things on there. Joints look like the 1300 series (same size caps as the 1310, just a narrower joint). Very nice looking piece, done correctly.

[milehighXR]

Got new driveshaft back last week. All new U joints with grease fittings, and NOT staked in. New CSB too. A bit more than I paid the last time I had a drive shaft rebuilt, but well worth it, since I won't have to futz with driveline angel of a one piece set up. New one is on top in photo. Kept old C-3 one that cam out of car, and used a spare T-9 shaft I had laying around as the core.

[milehighXR]

Next big thing to figure out, how does my clutch cable go thru the firewall on the auto XR? Is there a pre-existing knockout that I can use, or am I drilling a hole lined up with the clutch pedal?

I also have to find a clutch quadrant spring, as all the clutch pedals I have laying around don't have that for some reason...

[my8950]

Next big thing to figure out, how does my clutch cable go thru the firewall on the auto XR? Is there a pre-existing knockout that I can use, or am I drilling a hole lined up with the clutch pedal?

I also have to find a clutch quadrant spring, as all the clutch pedals I have laying around don't have that for some reason...

There is already a hole in the firewall for the cable, it's got a rubber plug in it on the auto, just pop that out and run the cable.

Drive shaft looks good...What do you mean by not STAKED? How much was total?

[merkurdriver]

Drive shaft looks good...What do you mean by not STAKED? How much was total?

"Not staked" AKA normal u joints instead of the stock ones that are staked and not very R&R friendly.

[my8950]

Drive shaft looks good...What do you mean by not STAKED? How much was total?

"Not staked" AKA normal u joints instead of the stock ones that are staked and not very R&R friendly.

Ah, gotcha, thanks!

[milehighXR]

Next big thing to figure out, how does my clutch cable go thru the firewall on the auto XR? Is there a pre-existing knockout that I can use, or am I drilling a hole lined up with the clutch pedal?

I also have to find a clutch quadrant spring, as all the clutch pedals I have laying around don't have that for some reason...

There is already a hole in the firewall for the cable, it's got a rubber plug in it on the auto, just pop that out and run the cable.

Drive shaft looks good...What do you mean by not STAKED? How much was total?

So I need new hole for vac line and wires for my CC setup as I used that hole for those...

On the bright side my clutch alignment tool showed up today...


Wrong part , note to self and others DO NOT order anything from Jegs unless you have the actual P/N you need. Their website was built by people that do not work on cars, and they list the wrong center force P/N for the 2.3L n/a T5 clutch alignment tool, and they don't list specs for the pilot bearing diameter. They did however issue a full refund for the tool and shipping, and I get to keep the wrong tool any how.

They do not even list the correct Centerforce P/N as being available for purchase thru them.

I did reorder the correct tool direct from Centerforce today, their website does list the pilot diameter as being correct for the application. We'll see when it gets here.

More film at 11...

[milehighXR]

Next big thing to figure out, how does my clutch cable go thru the firewall on the auto XR? Is there a pre-existing knockout that I can use, or am I drilling a hole lined up with the clutch pedal?

I also have to find a clutch quadrant spring, as all the clutch pedals I have laying around don't have that for some reason...

There is already a hole in the firewall for the cable, it's got a rubber plug in it on the auto, just pop that out and run the cable.

Drive shaft looks good...What do you mean by not STAKED? How much was total?

What Mike said on the staked u-joints.

Lets just say that the total cost on the drive shaft is more than an Xbox one X, plus a few games... It was still less than buying another XR Of course not much less than what my dad spent on his buying his XR in 2005

What she who must be obeyed doesn't know...

I knew it would be pricey, and I'm willing to pay it for not having to fumble f___ around with driveline vibes from a one piece drive shaft. I know a one piece is doable without vibes, it's just more fumble f___ing around that I don't need. Since I can rebuild a C3 with my eyes closed and have it function well for the long term I coulda rebuilt that for less than the drive shaft. But I don't envision this car getting driven enough to not be changing the trans oil every year just to keep water out of it. At least IF I have to do that with the T5, it's only 2ish qts of oil, and not 6-8 plus that the C3 requires. And I really couldn't pass up the price of the T5 with pressure plate, flywheel, cable, and a clutch that has some life left in it.