Yikes

[milehighXR]

Took the XR out last weekend for another drive, after getting new tires, cuz one tire looked like it was ready to engage in tread separation. Ran like poop, popped, and backfired a bit. No power hardly at all, and brakes weren't dragging. Decided I was gonna check cam timing(make sure it didn't jump when I installed trans), and then I was gonna look at ignition timing. These plugs have less than 30mi on them.



Broke plug number 4 getting it out(swore I used anti seize when I put them in).

So first q:

How long do I have once the new plugs are in to check ignition timing, before the new plugs end up like this?

I don't think the engine is overheating, I have a Merkur Depot rad, and even when it is only like 50°f outside, the temp gauge was not coming up far at all during a 10-15min drive at about 45mph.

I have no idea what these NGKs are supposed to be like for heat range in comparison to the factory Autolites.

Since I don't know the quality or age of the remaining fuel in the tank, I think I'm gonna drain it, and get fresh premium to put in with stabil, and ethanol shield(or whatever else I can get to help keep water out of the gas). I'll be checking compression just to be sure I didn't burn a hole in any of the pistons(I can't see any damage thru the spark plug hole, but ya never know).

[john keefe]

Hard to reference on the iridium point wear, without something NOS to visually compare to. But, 3 & 4 look normal for 30K miles, at least to me compared to regular plugs. #1 makes me think that the injector is a little weak, and you're firing lean (thus little build up). And #2 looks like it wasn't firing well at all, or some oil blow-by past the rings? Maybe faulty plug wire (or cross-firing... check for burned marks on the plug wire). If you could bench-test the injectors, I would. Can't hurt to upgrade the wires too, if not already 8-9mm cores.

I'm not sure why you're thinking about delaying a timing check? If everything else checks out, just set it, and then check again after some acceleration runs to make sure the distributor (or anything else) hasn't slipped. Just FYI, of the several 2.3L's I've had, at least 3 had distributor pins which bent, or even sheared, and threw everything off after hard runs, or just warmed up to normal op temp. If you're so inclined, and going through all the ignition anyway, doesn't hurt to pull the dizzy and check for looseness of the driven gear.

[milehighXR]

Not 30k miles, 30 miles, probably more like 15-20...

Delay of timing check is only to get new plugs and put em in. I'm just curious that is it running this lean that it's burning up the plugs how long I can run the engine before I burn up the next set of plugs while I'm setting ignition timing.

[zxr250cc]

Hi all,

The Autolite web sit has a page on how to read spark plugs that include pictures. I also found another site that shows close up photos of spark plugs and explanations of the plugs looking as they do: http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/reading-spa ... color.html

I would recommend using the standard copper plugs as they are very cheap and easily changed. They are also very easy to 'read' for results.

Cheers

[andyofcolumbusmerkur]

I have heard some horror stories about people running "performance" plugs that are not the Motorcraft/Autolite.

[john keefe]

Ooops. Sorry about misreading. Was thinking, those are overall in good shape for 30K miles, so what's the complaint?

The old rule of thumb was to stick with copper cored plugs for these engines. Platinum plugs just aren't a good match with these 2.3Ls. Don't know what kind of experiences people have had here with iridium. Maybe the burn is just different when under boost?

I'd still check #2 for either faulty plug wire (weak ignition spark), wear in the distributor cap, or do a compression check to see if there's leak down (pointing to worn rings).

[andyofcolumbusmerkur]

I guess the heat range is too cold or too hot on certain plugs, even though they may be a recommended plug for the 2.3 turbo.

Old thread but safe to say the people have spoken. http://forums.merkurclub.net/forum/view ... hp?t=21680

[milehighXR]

Definitely getting 764s soon, I dunno what prompted me to get the iridiums last time. I'll be checking resistance on the wires. I think they're Napa house brand, cant remember.

On wires, I saw another thread where everyone was suggesting Motorcraft or magnecore. I had magnecores once, and one wire actually had a bit of the bare wire sticking out and arcing on the exhaust. Havent been back to magnecores since. Are they made better these days?

[thesameguy]

Most spark plug manufacturers say "it works" if the thread & depth match up. But fancier plugs have tiny electrodes that foul very easily. The XR just doesn't have the combustion control necessary to get long life from an iridium plug.

But what you're seeing on #2 there doesn't seem like that problem. That seems like you've got a problem in that cylinder. Maybe an intake restriction, leaky valve seal, or injector issue on that cylinder. Maybe even an ignition problem - bad wire, bad rotor/cap, etc.

To see that much soot in 30 miles is very odd.

[milehighXR]

last time i had soot on 3 outta 4. So I'm moving in the right direction.

[thesameguy]

Hey, progress is progess!

[my8950]

I always use 22C's and Motorcraft wires, only a few times 764's, but have had good luck with those too.
When I got my car, it was not running. I messed around with a lot of things, ended up finding the plugs were Platinum.
Got rid of those and started right up, the car would not run with Platinum plugs.

[thesameguy]

I had severe missing issues with platinum plugs. Been running Motorcraft copper with Magnecor wires and ignition is rock solid. No idea how long I messed around with alternative plugs - but it was years - before wising up and just using what Ford told me to originally.

[milehighXR]

Local Napa can get the 764s, on the shelf no less. Does have note about it being a replacent for "oem half turn" or some such.

They cant get the Motorcraft wires though. Magnecore points the xr4ti to the r100 wires. I had these once before and one wire had bare wire exposed and arcing on the exhaust manifold. I havent tried them again since. If I go back to the magnecores what part number of the r100 routes best for the 2.3t?

[thesameguy]

Not 45190 for the KV85? Pretty sure that's what I've had on mine for like 15 years.