Ford 8.8 IRS LSD Differential Swap Pics

[DPDISXR4Ti]

I don't think I ever posted any pics of this in one thread, figured I should. I did mine with the David Godfrey "kit" which utilizes custom hybrid half-shafts - inner tri-pod joint, outer stock "Merkur" joint.

First, here's the pics of the modified beam with spacers and custom hardware...

[DPDISXR4Ti]

Pics of the 8.8 stub-shafts, sourced from the same vehicle as the 3.27 ratio 8.8 differential, a '93 Lincoln Mark VIII LSC...

[DPDISXR4Ti]

Installed pics, first of David's car, and then three of my install in the Brat...

[DPDISXR4Ti]

A little out of order, here's the pics with the pumpkin installed in the beam, not yet installed in the car. Note how the fitment on the left side is tighter, requiring some grinding on the case to clear...

[scorpioaddict]

Tidy!

[DPDISXR4Ti]

I have this info in another thread (http://forum.merkurclub.com/forum/viewt ... hilit=boot), but thought I would post it in here as well....

Just in case anyone else needs to locate replacement inner CV boots when using the Aluminum Lincoln Mark 8 differential and inner CV joint, the Driveshaft Shaft shop has them in stock (http://www.driveshaftshop.com)

Their part# is BT-435 and the price is $30 each including grease and clamps. FWIW, the part# on the actual boot is BT-429. I suspect this is because the tri-pod insert is bonded into a "regular" boot to create the 435 boot out of a 429.

It was quite an adventure to locate this boot. The Ford boot, p/n F2SZ4K326C (also F2SZ4L537C) is long ago discontinued. Raybestos 816-8033 is also discontinued; ignore any on-line vendor listing it as "in stock" - nobody has it.

Knowing what I know now, the better alternative is to use the Super Coupe stubs which apparently have an insert built into the cup so that it uses a conventional round boot. But the Mark 8 inner joints came along for free with my differential, so I decided to stick with those.

One thing I considered doing was making my own tri-pod insert from a salvaged boot. If you go that route you'd need a boot with the following approximate dimensions:
Big end diameter: 105mm
Axle end diameter: 30mm
Height: 140mm

[Ghost]

Interesting... I didn't have to grind the aluminum case at all when i swapped out the iron bastard. I did use SC inner joints and boots on mine, I still have Tim's stubs sitting around, just never got around to sourcing a shorter axle to fit them. Here's the only picture I took years ago when I first did the swap.

[DPDISXR4Ti]

Interesting... I didn't have to grind the aluminum case at all when i swapped out the iron bastard.

Weird. I wonder why/how there could be a difference?

The only thing I need to do with the rear-end this Spring is get the correct snap-ring on the outer ends of the hybrid half-shafts. It is NOT the same as stock - it's a little bit smaller.

[timxr8]

Interesting... I didn't have to grind the aluminum case at all when i swapped out the iron bastard.

Weird. I wonder why/how there could be a difference?

There are variations in the stamped pieces on the rear subframe. JVAB ran into the same problem when he had his forward AL pieces made for the Supra kit. Requires very mild grinding on the left side mounting block on some, but not all.

[DPDISXR4Ti]

There are variations in the stamped pieces on the rear subframe. JVAB ran into the same problem when he had his forward AL pieces made for the Supra kit. Requires very mild grinding on the left side mounting block on some, but not all.

Interesting. First I've heard that. Thanks for the data-point Tim.

Well, I'm done for the day - I learned something new!

[DPDISXR4Ti]

Checking this over before the Carlisle trip, I noticed that there is very little in/out play for the RH shaft, but more (a "typical" amount) for the LH half-shaft. Has anyone else ever noticed this when using the DG-spec'd hybrid axles? My concern is that over time I might experience a snap-ring failure - the snap-ring that prevents the axle from walking out of the CVJ.