Carlisle and event related pictures are to be placed in the relevant section under 'Events'.
Next, I wanted to put in a modern engine. I thought about doing the 2.0 or 2.3 ecoboost but the price of the engines scared me away. Then I found the 1.6 ecoboost. Engines are cheap and readily available from Escapes, lightweight, and capable of over 400hp. To make it run I found SCS Delta makes standalone ECUs and harnesses for many different applications, including all the 4cyl ecoboosts. The ECU and harness work great. To make the 1.6 engine fit required lots of fabrication. Notched the front subframe, cut into the firewall and trans tunnel, grind bosses and material from oil pan, fabricate mounts, etc. RWD Motorsport make conversion bellhousings for lots of things, including the Ford Sigma pattern(1.6 Eco) to T9 trans. Having owned 5 merks I should have plenty of those right? Nope, only own T5s, so I had an adapter plate made for the RWD Motorsport bell. Installed an Aerostar driveshaft, foxbody gas tank, Wilwood 4 pots and Focus SVT rotos up front, Focus front calipers and mustang cobra rotors in back, other necessities to make it go and I had my first Auto X event last weekend. Here are some pics along the way:
- John Brennan
- Level 8
- Posts: 11630
- Joined: Wed Jun 18, 2003 4:19 pm
- Location: Scottsdale, AZ "Summer Is Coming"
1989 XR4Ti 5-Speed
2001 BMW Z3 3.0 5-Speed
2015 Fiesta ST 6-Speed
2015 Edge 3.5 V6 Auto/Paddles
Any pics of the inside where you came through the firewall with the engine? No heat on this car?
I like the convenience of using the short rear springs, but I wonder if that's just too little travel? Are the short rear shocks supposed to be matched to those?
I shaved down the rear rubber bump stops to fit very snug inside the top spring perch. The perches are adjustable for height but the height was too tall for my liking so I took out the bottom rubbers and put in the thin plastic ones the springs came with. The adjusters still are turned all the way down, I would like it to be shorter still but oh well. With the suspension in full hang the springs are still compressed so they can't come off the bump stop nub.
I thought I took a lot more pictures along the way but can't find them. There is definitely no room for a blower or heater box, the DI pump sits off the back of the head. I will grab some more pics in a bit
But I do have to say that a few things don't really seem like a great idea to me... The rear springs don't have much travel and will probably coil bind which you don't want. Apart from that it also seems like they could pop out quite easily. I also don't get the point of using the extensions on the shocks, it seems they would have fitted straight away... But in general I don't understand why you are fitting springs and shocks with (I assume) unknown spring and damping rates that are probably not matched to each other. There are lots of options available that will give great handling. Why bother with random parts that are not intended for this car?
I also wouldn't use the bracket for the front anti roll bar. Normally there is a recess in the chassis rail where the bush sits in. But it seems like you have fitted a flat plate behind the bush that has some open space on the back due to the recess in the chassis rail. When braking the arb takes about all the braking force and you get huge forces on these brackets. Now it seems like only the bolts are preventing the bracket from sliding down, that is if the brackets don't start bending first...
And lastly it seems there would be quite a big shear force on the bolt for the engine mount. I would expect it to shear off in time.
Please don't take my post negatively, I just don't want to see anyone crashing their car due to things that could fail...
The shocks require the extensions because they are 5 inches shorter than the original merks. I wanted to use them because Solo-werks states they are valved to match the springs in the kit(and they are a purty blue color).
I didn't study bolt shear force in college so I can only rely on the expertise of others(and Google) for me to think the engine roll mount I made is adequate. From what I can gather the basic shear force of a M10 grade 10.9 bolt is about 7000lbs on the threaded part of the bolt. This means nothing to me because I can't accurately measure the force being applied in it's application. The bolt holds a steel cylinder and clamps it to the subframe. The steel cylinder is encased in rubber which is connected to more steel which is attached to more rubber and that rubber is attached to different steel and that steel is bolted to the engine block. In other words the rubber portions absorb the majority of the shear force, and the bolt maintains the tensile force. I don't think there is enough shear force left to come close to 7000lbs. I can totally be wrong with my thinking and specs, but that's my logic. Even if the bolt did break, it would not result in a crash or an accident as the engine and trans are fully supported by the other two mounts
As far as the sway brackets go, I took into consideration the forces that are applied there. Didn't put too much thought into other than the new sway brackets and metal base plate are the same thickness as the original merks, and they are $30 for the whole kit. If it starts to show any abnormalities I can always source new original merk stuff. After autox and driving around for a month it looks the same as when I installed them.
The original rear spring is mounted much higher, so has much more travel. Normally the bump stop is mounted at the point where your spring starts. So when your spring is fully compressed the original one would have some travel left and then hit the bump stop, which it seems yours does not have.
Regarding the rear shocks to be valved for the springs, that's probably the case when fitted on the car they are intended for. But now you are using them in a different location which means the motion ratio for both the spring and the shock are very likely different than original, which means they aren't matched anymore. The spring has a motion ratio smaller than 1 (it moves less than the wheel), while the shock has a motion ration bigger than 1 (it moves more than the wheel). This means the shock needs less damping over a certain shaft length than when it would also have a motion ratio lower than 1. Of course it could by coincidence be that the motion ratios for both spring and shock are the same on the Golf IV, but that's seems highly unlikely to me.
But it's nice to see someone trying something different.
What size pistons are on the front? They look like the Dynalite 3.5. You should really go for the Superlite Internals. They'll bolt right on and give you the correct pad sizing. Seriously, the Dynalite/Dynapro Pads are almost half the surface area of those 08-11 Focus Front Pads.
1988 XR4Ti Duratec project car
2011 Taurus SHO daily driver...not stock.