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I will admit my brakes are not ideal. I originally intended to use the Forged Narrow Dynalite 4 calipers with the focus svt rotors on the rear of the vehicle, but didn't take into account the rotor hat not fitting over the hub. I was then going to use 6 pot calipers up front with focus RS MK1 rotors. I figured I could machine the rear hubs to fit inside the focus rotors but I was also worried about being able to fit the RS 324mm rotor and 6pots under a 16inch wheel. Time was running out and so was money so I threw the 4 pots on the front and I had the focus calipers laying around so put those on the rear. I still plan on changing them but they actually work pretty good for what I need right now. The front pistons are 35mm(1.38in.). I have an adjustable proportioning valve for the rears with it all the way open and don't experience lockup. I have BP-30 brake pads on front and OE organic pads for rear. The more aggressive pads combined with a larger diameter rotor keep the biasing very manageable. Also to take into consideration, just because a brake pad has more surface area doesn't give it more bite. The clamping force is spread out more on a larger surface area pad and is reduced when compared to smaller surface area pad.
I am putting together an LSD unit this week and will see how the car does with that. After that it's hood extractors and some body work. Over the winter I'll get the focus RS rotors and see if I can fit them under the wheels I have.

Do you happen to remember the part number for the solowerks kit?

The kit is for the MK4 Golf R32. Part number:
S1VW005 R2.1

Thanks, a nother question for you....
Is there room to go pretty low with this setup on a xr4ti?
Also do you happen to have any other pics of your rear upper shock mount adapter?
Thanks again Ryan

Here is a website that sells them, I bought them off eBay.
http://streetrays.com/newstore/index.ph ... ers&page=3
Keep in mind I had to modify the extenders to fit inside the shock tower. Overall I do not recommend going this route, I would use a proper length shock.

The front can go as low as you want, the rear I have adjusted all the way down and would like it to be lower. The results will vary for different cars. My car is completely gutted and has an engine that weighs less than factory.

85merwhat? wrote: ↑Thu Apr 04, 2019 6:30 pm Here is a website that sells them, I bought them off eBay.
http://streetrays.com/newstore/index.ph ... ers&page=3
Keep in mind I had to modify the extenders to fit inside the shock tower. Overall I do not recommend going this route, I would use a proper length shock.

The front can go as low as you want, the rear I have adjusted all the way down and would like it to be lower. The results will vary for different cars. My car is completely gutted and has an engine that weighs less than factory.

I'll probably just fab something up for the rear upper shock mount. I wonder what the recommended shock lenght should be a ride height.?
I plan on still running my 650lb 9.5inch tall camaro spring in the rear with the solowerks rear shock.

650lbs at 9.5" will sit higher than stock. Even if you remove the spring isolator. Been there, done that with 700s.

Esteban wrote: ↑Fri Apr 05, 2019 12:00 am 650lbs at 9.5" will sit higher than stock. Even if you remove the spring isolator. Been there, done that with 700s.

Well I might have to use the solowerks springs or chop off a little bit at a time of the camaro springs till desired ride height is achieved. I haven't pulled the car out yet for the summer and for some reason I thought when you install camero springs it would lower in from stock ride height.

I love what you did, I need to eventually put a modern engine in mine, Im getting fed up with the trouble.

Couple questions: Hows the hood clearance? Could the engine of moved up a bit higher to clear better the suspension? Could the engine of moved forward more to allow more firewall clearance?

Is the bell housing you used for the "duratec"? That means that duratec bell housing conversions will also work on all ecoboosts 1.6 2.0 + 2.3.

Any reason why you didn't use a T5 tranny?


My car is not a track car, so Im wondering if this can be done without cutting up everything.


Thanks!

No hood clearance issues. If the engine is moved up any higher the bellhousing would hit tunnel, moved forward the oil pan would hit subframe.
The 1.6 is a "Sigma" engine series aka Zetec-se, but not to be confused with older zetec 2.0s. The eco 2.0 & 2.3 are "Duratec".
The sigma engines don't have much following here in the states so sourcing custom parts was all done from Europe. RWD Motorsports, SCS Delta, SBD Motorsport are the ones I used.
The bellhousing from RWD is Zetec-se to T9, but I had a 3/4" aluminum adapter plate made T9 to T5. The shifter placement is right in the middle of the original opening. I am using a V8 world class T5 with input shaft machined down to 4cyl diameter.

Bottom line I don't see how it can fit without extensive modifications. SBD offers a Titan dry sump oil pan kit that may help fitment. Otherwise RWD offers Duratec bellhousings which may allow the mustang eco 2.3 to fit more proper than the 1.6, especially since the 2.3 mustang has an oil pan designed for rear wheel drive.

Very nice project! Did you notice the weight difference between the two engines while driving, especially doing autocross?

Nothing to do with the OP, really, but in case anyone finds this thread and wants to pursue something similar, they should be aware of OMC part number 0914081 .... It's an outboard bellhousing from the '80s, that is the Ford Pinto/Zetec/Sigma pattern on the engine side and small block Chevy on the other side. Using this adapter and a Ranger-style starter, one could bolt a GM T5 to their 1.6 Ecoboost.

I've been casually looking for one for a few months ... they pop up on ebay from time to time, and on various websites that specialize in old marine gear.

The pattern is not the same for 1.6 ecoboost. The 1.6 ecoboost is a Zetec SE, completely different than older Zetec(Zetec-r, Zetec-e) Zeta family. Zeta family uses iron block. Sigma engines(zetec-s, zetec-se, duratec ti-vct) are unique, and use aluminum block. It gets even more confusing when you bring in the 2.0 and 2.3 ecoboost duratecs which are based on mazda blocks with ford heads.

That plate is interesting, although I do believe there are several bell housings that directly bolt to the Zeta Zetec engine, some require re-drilling top holes and changing dowl sizes.

Dammit!

So what this means, I guess, is that I'm going to take the T5 out of my Falcon and put it in an XR4Ti, then take the T9 out of that XR4Ti and put it in the Falcon with a 1.6 Ecoboost. FUN.